Friday, August 8, 2014

I got it! I got it! I got it! - don't got it!

Hi fellow sewists!  Recently, I purchased the McCall's 1948 sewing pattern from a person on eBay.  The pattern pieces were cut out, but they weren't all present.  The pattern is missing the belt pattern piece.  However, I was looking high and low for this pattern for a reasonable price and I used Buy it Now and got it at a reasonable price!  Yay!  I'm sure I would not find this pattern for a lower price anywhere. 






I modified my machine embroidery pattern to indicate steam rising from the cup of cocoa and also I placed the cup of cocoa by itself and the plate of doughnuts by themselves. 

As it turns out, the huge pocket for this apron measures 11 inches across at the center of the pocket.  What a huge pocket!  I usually make large embroidery designs so I'm hoping that my designs still fit.  I thought I might try neatening up the edges instead of putting on the bias binding by just turning them back and hemming using a rolled hem?  I wanted this pattern as I really need something better to answer the door in!  LOL!

What treasured patterns are you in search of?  How do you like my featured pattern on the top of the blog?  I changed it to Advance 4113.

Thank you for reading to the end!

Sunday, July 27, 2014

Hi there!  Are there any good sewing videos?  Recently I have been watching and re-watching The Great British Sewing Bee online.  Did the American Sewing Bee TV program ever get off the ground?  Someone tell me?  What inspires you to sew?

Three books, which I have probably mentioned ad nauseum, really inspire me.

1.  Modern Home Sewing:  Modern Home Sewing by Drucella Lowrie and Sylvia K. Mager is the back part of the book.  This book starts off with pictures of beautiful 1950's ladies and children dressed in personalized, embroidered clothing.  It gives you lots of ideas and inspiration!  If you DO happen to own the Necchi BU sewing machine, then it gives you helpful sewing tips about that machine as well.  Somehow whenever I pick up this book and start reading it I find myself smiling.  It's a down-to-earth, step-by-step instruction book for making clothing, home furnishings and etc.

You can find Modern Home Sewing for sale in these places:
Amazon: (Click on the picture),

    Etsy.com Here and Here

And on eBay Here and Here  Just to name a few!






2.  Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing:  Gertie's book shows you many techniques of sewing both by machine and by hand with a lot of step-by-step photographs.  It's really helpful!  The book also includes a wardrobe of Retro style clothing.  If you need more help just visit Gertie's Blog! 

Click on the pictures to buy these books.



Below you can Pre-Order Gertie's New Book:  Gertie Sews Vintage Casual Coming out Soon!


3.  Sewing for Plus Sizes by Barbara Deckert:  Barbara's book shows you all about how to fit and sew for the plus sized woman.  She has many illustrations and step-by-step instructions.  The photos show the types of clothing that can be made for the plus size model that do actually flatter the figure rather than one's wearing a tent from "Omar the Tent Maker".   She also explains how to add variety to the commercial patterns so they are made more flattering too.  A great book for any plus size sewer!

Click on the picture to buy this book.



Thank you for reading to the end!

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Hello Readers,  Today I wanted to go over Gertie's Butterick Shelf Bust Dress Pattern, Butterick 5882.  I have purchased this pattern and it is on my to do list.  I was thinking about how it would look on a plus sized person and I believe that it would look better if the strap was below the bust rather than transecting the middle of the bust.  The pattern is made to be sewn with the strap cutting across mid bust.  To achieve the below shelf bust look, if you will, the scoop needs to be dropped down below the bust and the front bodice needs to be moved below the bust as shown in the photo of Elizabeth Taylor.  Simplicity 4704 is a similar pattern to Butterick 5882, but you can see that the band goes below the bust instead.





You'll notice that in Elizabeth Taylor's photo that the top pleated or ruched bust panels come down half way on her bust rather than starting at the top of her bust.  I think this is also a better look for a plus-sized figure because if the cups start at the top or higher on the bust nearer the neck, then the cups look sort of ungainly or like a person is trying to be super modest.

This is the fabric I plan on using for the modified Butterick 5882 pattern:
Click here if you would like to buy this fabric.  I bought it from FabricEmpire on Etsy.com.  It is 58 inches wide and is $3.99 per yard.  It is a crisp polycotton and launders well with no bleeding or shrinking that I could tell.  I'm going to use a solid red polycotton for the contrast - really similar to the model picture.  I really liked that look.  Also possible and also for sale by FabricEmpire is the same or similar fabric with a black background instead.  See it HERE.

  

I will need to do some work to modify the front bodice and the pleated bust panels.  I think the bust panels might fit me from a previous modification I did.  For help with this pattern the best source is the designer - Gertie!  See her blog tutorial for this dress HERE. Once on Gertie's blog you can search for more tutorials on this dress.

Do you think that this dress would look better on a plus-size figure with the band below the bust, more like Simplicity 4704?  Or do you think it would look better just the way it is?  Let me know!  I would like to hear from you and see what you think!  

Thank you for reading to the end!

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Coffee Talk - Aprons

Hi there!  Well it's been a long time.  Recently, I have been looking at this pattern:  The McCall's #1948 Coffee and Doughnuts apron.



It has a circle skirt and is a wrap around type of dress apron.  I find it somewhat similar to the Butterick 4790.


Okay so I don't really like coffee.  What I've done on my own is I made some machine embroidery files for the apron.  One for the right pocket and one for the left pocket. 


I tried to capture the idea of a plate of doughnuts, the doughnuts include one glazed doughnut, one chocolate frosted doughnut, one chocolate frosted doughnut with sprinkles and one pink frosted doughnut with sprinkles, as well as one of those almost bowl-type, heavy, white coffee mugs full of hot cocoa with mini marshmallows, similar to what you might order in a 1950's era doughnut shop.  What do you think?

Recently, I have been making the Lutterloh patterns from different eras in order to make outfits of the 1950's to 1960's or so.  I feel they capture more of my retro style.  I am still inspired by Gertie, (Gretchen Hirsch), and I can't wait until her new second book becomes available for purchase:  Gertie Sews Vintage Casual.  It's so exciting!


      


When I get back to the bullet bra you'll know it here - eventually.

Let me hear from you and any comments or questions you might have!  Thank you for reading!


Monday, February 3, 2014

LUTTERLOH RE-DO

Hi there!  Well today I used my own measurements of Bust 128cm and Hips 130cm and re-drew or re-drafted the basic blouse pattern er twice for the front bodice piece.  Once with the regular tape measure and the leaflet short-sleeved blouse.  This didn't work.

Then I re-drafted the XL - XXL basic blouse using the tape measure that goes with that kit.  The pattern came out pretty close!  I had to subtract about 1.5 inches or approx. 3.81 cm from the platen edge or the doubled fabric straight piece that the buttons are sewn on edge of the front.  I had to add about 1/2 inch or about 1.27 cm to the under the arm body side of the pattern.  I had to sort of redraw the shoulder and arm circle part of the pattern.  Another thing I did was to make a dart from the middle of the shoulder straight down about 4 inches or approx. 10 cm and about 1.5 inches or so or approx. 3.81cm in width tapering to nothing.  I did an arm circle dart as that works better for me than the side dart and I took out the same amount of paper/fabric for that as the original which was about 3 inches or 8cm at the widest part tapering down to zero.

Trying to find a specific fabric should have been listed first.  Please read my post about trying to find a specific fabric.  Thanks!

Trying to find a specific fabric...

Hi!  You know what it's like when you're trying to find a specific fabric.  There are a lot of choices out there, but how come I am having problems finding a simple cotton fabric with red cherries on a white background for a reasonable price?  Sure I could pay $8.00 or $9.00 per yard, but at my size I need a lot of yardage.  Sigh.

I am very interested in making this pattern:
Butterick 5882  
I oftentimes find that I like the pattern just as illustrated and I'm especially attracted to view A in this case which is a white background with red cherries on the fabric where the bust and strap are in a bright red fabric.  

 



I have made the front part of the basic blouse, the back part of the basic blouse, a short sleeve which I'm not sure about since I made changes to the arm holes of the front and back piece and I still need to make the collar and maybe some cuffs.  It's coming along and I'm pretty sure the Lutterloh blouse front will fit.  I used my own measurements which are 128cm bust and 130cm hips. 

I think one of the best books I've read and keep re-reading is Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing.  For some reason my links to Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing on Amazon for this blog and widget are not working so I have to resort to a direct link that has nothing to do with me.  Sigh.  Thank you for reading 'til the end!

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

LUTTERLOH PATTERNS WORK

Hi there!  So it has been awhile and I apologize.  I have had many health problems and many problems with health insurance and prescriptions.  It's not all settled, but I shall do my best.

Today I worked on the Lutterloh basic blouse pattern as long as possible for me.  I have tried this pattern method over and over and either it would fit the bust, but not the body and not the top part or else it was just way off in the body part.

My measurements are:  50" bust or approx. 127 cm, DD cup.
My underbust is 46" or approx. 117 cm.
My waist is 50" or approx. 127 cm
My hips are 52" or approx. 132 cm.

My first pattern was way too small so I tried the following numbers or scale:

1.  bust 138, hips 142 - the whole pattern was way too big.
2.  bust 136, hips 140 - the pattern sort of fit in the bust and the body, but the neck and armsinc were off by quite a bit.
3.  bust 134, hips 138 - the pattern sort of fit in the bust and the body, but the neck and armsinc were way off again.

Tomorrow or later I will try bust 132, hips 136 and see what happens.  I have a sort of medium to small frame with a large bust and my waist and hips are nearly matching with the hips being 2" larger than my waist.

If that does not work I will try for my high bust which is 46" and if that's way off I could try for my frame size which is 42" or so as measured under the arms and across the back but above the bust.

My shape is like a classic potato.  I have short arms for my size and a short waist. 

For the holidays my sister sent me some books from the 1970's and 1980's on sewing, fitting and other neat stuff.  I am reading them off and on.

My go to book is still Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing.