Hi there! So it has been awhile and I apologize. I have had many health problems and many problems with health insurance and prescriptions. It's not all settled, but I shall do my best.
Today I worked on the Lutterloh basic blouse pattern as long as possible for me. I have tried this pattern method over and over and either it would fit the bust, but not the body and not the top part or else it was just way off in the body part.
My measurements are: 50" bust or approx. 127 cm, DD cup.
My underbust is 46" or approx. 117 cm.
My waist is 50" or approx. 127 cm
My hips are 52" or approx. 132 cm.
My first pattern was way too small so I tried the following numbers or scale:
1. bust 138, hips 142 - the whole pattern was way too big.
2. bust 136, hips 140 - the pattern sort of fit in the bust and the body, but the neck and armsinc were off by quite a bit.
3. bust 134, hips 138 - the pattern sort of fit in the bust and the body, but the neck and armsinc were way off again.
Tomorrow or later I will try bust 132, hips 136 and see what happens. I have a sort of medium to small frame with a large bust and my waist and hips are nearly matching with the hips being 2" larger than my waist.
If that does not work I will try for my high bust which is 46" and if that's way off I could try for my frame size which is 42" or so as measured under the arms and across the back but above the bust.
My shape is like a classic potato. I have short arms for my size and a short waist.
For the holidays my sister sent me some books from the 1970's and 1980's on sewing, fitting and other neat stuff. I am reading them off and on.
My go to book is still Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing.
A look back at historical costumes, sewing, pattern drafting, pattern altering, jewelry and everything to go with dresses and clothing from the past.
Showing posts with label Pattern Making. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pattern Making. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 22, 2014
Friday, June 15, 2012
Bullet Bra: Layout and cutting out pieces
Hi! There's been a lot going on here and today, June 15, 2012, I have finally had the opportunity to lay out the bullet bra pattern pieces on the muslin and cut them out. The photo below shows some of the pattern pieces laid out onto the muslin and also the Olfa rotary cutter with guide arm and the Olfa green cutting mat. One will not work without the other, trust me. The Muslin bolt I purchased is 48" wide and was rolled onto the bolt doubled. For every piece I cut out there will be four pieces. Next time I'll undo it so there won't be so many on the folded fabric. The fabric is 24" wide when folded and it would take about 24" of fabric if your fabric is 48" wide for the size 46 DD bullet bra. Please note that this bullet bra will be made out of cotton or similar fabrics - NOT the stretch fabrics, slinky, milliskin, tricot or spandex lycra of most bras.
Finally, shown above, here are the pieces cut out. I still have to mark the pieces so I kept the patterns pinned to them. This is my first use of the Olfa rotary cutter and guide and single large Olfa cutting mat. I must say it will take more practice on my part in order for me to get proficient in its use! Buy yours here. Buy the Olfa rotary cutter and guide arm by itself here. It was not as easy as the video made it look. This video, by Bruce Oleyar, is really a great addition to any seamstress or would-be seamstress's or tailor's video library. Bruce not only explains step-by-step how to use the Lutterloh system, but also how to alter pattern pieces, sew them together correctly so you don't get that "hand made" (unprofessional) look, how to design your own patterns and more. Please note that my own bullet bra pattern was made by me using my own measurements and some ideas I found freely on the internet.
You may also find the Olfa products for sale on such websites as eBay.com or else other websites. If you have a Michael's store nearby, they used to sell them there; however, I am not sure if they still carry them. Certain select sewing and/or fabric stores may have these Olfa products as well. Don't buy the Fiscars or other cutting mats as they will dull your blade and not cut correctly no matter the brand of your rotary cutter.
Because of my various health problems this simple step of laying out the pattern pieces, pinning them to the muslin and then cutting them out left me needing rest. Normal people should be able to cut out the pattern pieces in perhaps about 20 minutes or so. My husband also helped me by laying the plywood, cutting mat and fabric bolt out for me on the bed. I don't have a cutting table - wish I did. I have to do things that are affordable to me and this economy is bad, as you know.
So as I mentioned the next step would be for me to mark the individual pattern pieces and to "clean them up" with a pair of sharp scissors I use ONLY for cutting fabrics. I suggest you also buy a good pair of shears and use them only to cut fabric out with. Don't even use them to cut out the pattern pieces as that will dull the blades of most shears or scissors really fast! You might like to try the Kai scissors here. My own scissors I purchased a long time ago from a sewing and fabric store - I forget which one. They were fairly expensive, I think about $30.00 at the time. They are Gingher scissors. If you need larger pictures please contact me and I can send them to you. :)
If you have any comments, criticisms or suggestions, please leave them. Thank you! :)
 | |||||
| Layout of pattern pieces |
 |
| The pieces cut out but still pinned to the pattern pieces |
Finally, shown above, here are the pieces cut out. I still have to mark the pieces so I kept the patterns pinned to them. This is my first use of the Olfa rotary cutter and guide and single large Olfa cutting mat. I must say it will take more practice on my part in order for me to get proficient in its use! Buy yours here. Buy the Olfa rotary cutter and guide arm by itself here. It was not as easy as the video made it look. This video, by Bruce Oleyar, is really a great addition to any seamstress or would-be seamstress's or tailor's video library. Bruce not only explains step-by-step how to use the Lutterloh system, but also how to alter pattern pieces, sew them together correctly so you don't get that "hand made" (unprofessional) look, how to design your own patterns and more. Please note that my own bullet bra pattern was made by me using my own measurements and some ideas I found freely on the internet.
You may also find the Olfa products for sale on such websites as eBay.com or else other websites. If you have a Michael's store nearby, they used to sell them there; however, I am not sure if they still carry them. Certain select sewing and/or fabric stores may have these Olfa products as well. Don't buy the Fiscars or other cutting mats as they will dull your blade and not cut correctly no matter the brand of your rotary cutter.
Because of my various health problems this simple step of laying out the pattern pieces, pinning them to the muslin and then cutting them out left me needing rest. Normal people should be able to cut out the pattern pieces in perhaps about 20 minutes or so. My husband also helped me by laying the plywood, cutting mat and fabric bolt out for me on the bed. I don't have a cutting table - wish I did. I have to do things that are affordable to me and this economy is bad, as you know.
So as I mentioned the next step would be for me to mark the individual pattern pieces and to "clean them up" with a pair of sharp scissors I use ONLY for cutting fabrics. I suggest you also buy a good pair of shears and use them only to cut fabric out with. Don't even use them to cut out the pattern pieces as that will dull the blades of most shears or scissors really fast! You might like to try the Kai scissors here. My own scissors I purchased a long time ago from a sewing and fabric store - I forget which one. They were fairly expensive, I think about $30.00 at the time. They are Gingher scissors. If you need larger pictures please contact me and I can send them to you. :)
If you have any comments, criticisms or suggestions, please leave them. Thank you! :)
Friday, August 12, 2011
Butterick 4790
Hi! I just found someone else's blog about how to fix the many and sundry problems with fitting the Butterick 4790 1950's style "walkaway" dress so that it doesn't look like an apron or worse. :) See below on how to fix this, (what should be), simple pattern!
http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=750
Also I am getting closer to actually using the Lutterloh System. Lack of funds, as usual, plagues me, but progress IS being made. :)
You can find the Lutterloh system on their website at:
http://www.lutterloh.com
where you may also find instructions on how to use the system by watching a short video, many patterns to choose from and they also have an "XL/XXL" Lutterloh system for those of us who are "larger than life" or BBW's. I found that I fit in the regular sized "scale" after I had already purchased the XL/XXL Lutterloh system. Well some things one needs to find out the hard way...
Anyway, I have made some test patterns using the Lutterloh system and if I had had the proper equipment at the time, my patterns would have turned out quite well, as they seemed to fit! This would be the first time any sewing patterns fit me in about 38 years or so.
Hope to post more later. :)
http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=750
Also I am getting closer to actually using the Lutterloh System. Lack of funds, as usual, plagues me, but progress IS being made. :)
You can find the Lutterloh system on their website at:
http://www.lutterloh.com
where you may also find instructions on how to use the system by watching a short video, many patterns to choose from and they also have an "XL/XXL" Lutterloh system for those of us who are "larger than life" or BBW's. I found that I fit in the regular sized "scale" after I had already purchased the XL/XXL Lutterloh system. Well some things one needs to find out the hard way...
Anyway, I have made some test patterns using the Lutterloh system and if I had had the proper equipment at the time, my patterns would have turned out quite well, as they seemed to fit! This would be the first time any sewing patterns fit me in about 38 years or so.
Hope to post more later. :)
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